Aah the smell of biriyani always makes everyone
who is a hardcore meat lover salivate to no end!!! But where or how did this so
called exotic dish emerge? The answer to this question has been bothering me
since the past 6 years and I have been searching for answers all along. It is
only recently that time permitted to me to do my research when I extensively
searched for my answers. Although I did get a few from watching those fabulous
food shows on Fox Traveller or TLC my search was still on. My logical thinking told me that since
this is essentially of Muslim origin the basic recipe to the dish would arise from
the nomads of the middle east or may be even Mongolia!! Who knows!!
Since the bee got inside my bonnet I have
been reading up on Iranian, Iraqi, Turkish, Mongolian food and cuisines for my
answers. It has been an interesting journey for me reading about the food origins and cultures of these countries. What baffled me though about these cuisines
was the fact that they were very similar to each other and yet very different.
Mongolian cuisine is distinctly different from the others as mentioned.
Iraq, would possibly have influenced all
the neighbouring countries as this was the bed of one of the world’s oldest
civilizations, the Mesopotamian Civilization! Thus I wonder who influenced
whom! Did the Mesopotamians influence the Egyptians, oh yes they too share
similar food cultures and cuisines, or vice versa. Or was it the influence of
the Indus Civilization on the Mesopotamian and the Egyptian which actually
happened. I am no historian and therefore it would be wrong of me to pass a
judgement, I can only speculate given the commonalities! I tend to keep the
Chinese Civilization out of this as their cuisine and food trail is very
different from the other three civilizations of that period! Trade did happen
between these civilizations and there is enough proof of it as has been stated
by historians. But what they did not state was the fact that along with trade
there was exchange of food habits and culture too. I am certain that there
would have been a certain amount of cross culture with marriage between those
coming to our lands for trade and the residents of our land and vice versa. The
spices used in Iraqi, Turkish, Iranian, Egyptian and even for that matter Greek
cuisines and certain recipes are adequate reflection of it.
My research showed that there is mention
of rice and meat cooked together in the Mahabharata, and that even old Indian
texts talk of a certain rice dish as “pulao” or “pallao”. Now since I am
neither an expert nor an authority on the ancient Indian texts written in Sanskrit
I can only comment on what I come across in the Internet and deem them to be
true. Logical thinking says that if there is a mention of rice and meat cooked
together in the Mahabharat then it must be true and the other civilizations, Mesopotamian
and Egyptian, may have borrowed the recipe from us and modified it later to
suit their climates and tastes. Who know??!!?? Question is one can only ratify
the authenticity of this if there is another epic work from either Mesopotamia or
Egypt to compare the Mahabharat with which is as old! The mention in the
Mahabharat may have happened to indicate the food for the army when at war and
meat and rice cooked together would have been just the answer as it packed in
the energies needed by the soldiers. That’s what my logic says!
The origin of the word “biriyani” traces
to Persian words “birinj” meaning rice or “biryan” meaning to fry or roast. To
me both could be true as “biriyani’ is made with rice and the meat, in most
cases, is fried too. However, what’s in a name or for that matter how does it
even matter where the word came from? What matters here is what is the origin
of the dish called “biriyani”!
Be it Iraq, Iran, Turkey, Afghanistan, Pakistan,
Bangladesh, Sri Lanka or India, all have dish where meat and rice are cooked together
and is called by different names. Looking at the demography of the countries
where this very popular dish is eaten it can be seen that the countries are all
bound by one religion – Islam. We can therefore deduce that although there is
mention of a meat and rice dish in the Mahabharat, it is the Persians who later
popularised it when they moved to the east to India and as they expanded their
empire up north and west. I have not come across Egypt having a similar dish
but most of the middle eastern countries do!
In India, there are variations depending
on the local influence. For example, in Bengal we like it with potatoes, the
ones you get in Tamil Nadu, Kerala, has the influence of coconut and curry
leaves, in Andhra it is rather spicy, the Lucknowi one is considered to be the
authentic, the usage of asafoetida prevails in Kashmir.
When I cook biriyani it is very different
from the ones I have tasted thus far in India. The recipe was given by an old
family friend from Bangladesh and the meat it not cooked but marinated for a
long time. The dish is assembled with the marinated meat piled in the center of
the pot surrounded with the rice which is half cooked and a 50/50 mix of ghee
and milk poured over before it is left on the stove for dum.
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| The Biriyani Map |
Recently I came across an article
published by the Times of India which has a mention of 15 types of biriyanis. It
talks about the Kacchi Biryani which
has its origin in Bangladeshi and as the name suggests, it uses raw mutton to
make the rice dish.
The Hyderabadi
biryani which is one of the most popular dishes in south India, this dish
from Mughlai cuisine is quite a challenge to make, and each has his unique way
of spicing it up. What makes it stand out is the usage of saffron and coconut.
This biryani is cooked in layers - the most challenging part in its creation.
While most other biryanis are always dominated by mutton and chicken gravy,
here the saffron mixed-rice takes over. It is usually served either with
brinjal gravy or mirchi ka salan.
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| Hyderabadi Biriyani |
In Dindigul
Biryani which is a favourite in Chennai, the rice used in it is very
different - jeera samba rice instead of Basmati, giving it an entirely new
flavour. The biryani also uses cube-sized muttonchicken pieces instead of big
chunks. Apart from the usual masala, a lot of pepper is used. Lucknowi Biryani.
Based on the Persian style of cooking, the
Lucknowi biryani uses what is known
as dum pukht method of cooking. As is
the norm with most Persian cooking methods, the meat and gravy are partially
cooked and then layered and cooked in the dum pukht style. It is served in a
sealed handi and is light on the stomach as it is low on spices.
The
Kolkata biryani has its roots in the Nawabi style biryani of Lucknow. The
chefs from Awadhi kitchens brought the signature biryani recipe to Kolkata,
which later got tweaked into the unique biryani that we know today. This biryani
is unique, thanks to its subtle use of spices combined with ghee, Basmati rice
and mutton, and the addition of potatoes and boiled eggs also lends a different
flavour to the dish. The use of nutmeg with saffron and kewra gives this
biryani its signature aroma.
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| Kolkata Biriyani |
Malabar
biryani, which is famous
in Kozhikode, Thalassery and Malappuram areas of Kerala, is characterised by variety
of rice used called khyma rice, along with the rich flavour of spices, the
generous usage of cashew nuts and raisins. The method of preparation of this
biriyani makes it different form its counterparts. Here the rice is cooked
separately from mutton gravy and mixed well only when ready to serve.
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| Malabar Biriyani |
What makes Bombay biryani, like its Kolkata counterpart, is special for the
use of potatoes in it. Be it vegetarian or non-vegetarian biryani, potatoes are
a must. It is prepared by first layering the half-cooked basmati rice and
cooked meat then cooked in the dum-style.
Despite the write up from which I have
quoted, my biriyani trail has yet to come to an end. This is just the beginning
of a very long journey with one of the most fragrant dishes that one can ever
come across. I recall someone making a comment to me that “one does not eat
biryani with ones mouth; one eats it with ones nose”!
